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Showing posts with label Apparel and Textile. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Apparel and Textile. Show all posts

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Graduation Project Topics on Apparel Merchandising

Graduation Project Topics on Apparel Merchandising for 2014 (Discussion Post)


This is a discussion post. And I want you to participate in our discussion. Your participation can make a big difference.

I am not in touch with merchandising work and with merchandisers for couple of years. That is why it becomes very difficult for me to suggest good topic to students. I want you to suggest some project topics for students in merchandising filed. All of the students are from NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology).

Here I have posted one of my e-mail discussions. And posted 4 other similar queries from OCS readers. I hope you would also like to give your suggestion on this discussion.

Student # 1: 

OCS Reply: What are your favorite topics in NIFT? Carry out your graduation project on your interested topics. Which course you are doing at NIFT? Are you interested to do project in college or in factories? Reply me these two questions then I would be able to suggest you few good topics for your project.
Student: I am a student doing Apparel Production in NIFT and am interested in doing my GP in Merchandising. But the problem is that the college faculties do not encourage the same. So it would be helpful to me if you could suggest some topics related to for both Merchandising as well as Production.
OCS Reply: In such case, you can do project on the below topics
- Strengthening Pre-production activities in an export house (reduction on delays in pre-production activities)
- Improve Production planning in sampling and merchandising process (pre-production)
- How an effective merchandising improve production, reduce quality issues and reduce shipment delays

Tips: Don't be biased by the name of the topic. In the graduation project learn as much as you can do. While you are doing project on production, you can still learn merchandising by interacting with merchandisers in a factory.

Student #2: 

I want to carry out my college project in merchandising. Any research project topic in merchandising department. Plz help.

Student#4: 

Sir, I request you to suggest me some good graduation projects in merchandising which helps me learn and explore more about its roles and functions also it may benefit the company thus resulting in a successful project.

You read the request from fashion students. My request to you please sug

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Production Plan Without SAM Value

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How to Make Production Plan Without SAM Value? [Q&A]




Mass manufacturing in garment industry is growing in very fast pace and at the same time technology and supporting departments are getting in place. But the real fact is - still most of the garment manufacturing companies don’t have industrial engineering set up. It is not only Bangladesh, even in India and other garment exporting countries, there are many companies those are managed without engineers.

Last week I have posted an article ‘Role of SAM value in Production planning and control’ and this post is based on that question. Yes, there is a way to perform production planning tasks without garment SAM value. In this article I will show you the method.

The alternative way is calculating machine productivity to estimate line capacity as well as your factory capacity. To measure machine productivity of a line you don’t need any engineer. If one know the procedure and formula of calculating productivity of the production floor, can find machine productivity easily. Later this productivity data would be considered as base of production planning.


Method of calculating Machine productivity:


Machine productivity is defined as number of units produced per machine in a given time period. From the daily production and machine used to produce those garments you can measure machine productivity per day. Formula used to calculated machine productivity of a line

Machine productivity = (Total production of a line in a day / No. of machines in the line) pieces per day per machine

For example, suppose a line of 35 machines has produced 280 pieces per day (8 hours shift day). Machine productivity of the line

= 280/35 pieces per machine per 8 hours day

= 8 pieces per machine per 8 hours day

Finding daily line output data and machine numbers would not be a difficult job to anyone. Just for your information - style to style productivity will vary depending on work content of the style. So, you can prepare a database of the machine productivity for the previously produced styles. You can use historical data while required and update your machine productivity after each style gets over.


How to use productivity data in Production Planning:


To explain this I need to repeat few things that have been explained in earlier article. That I don't like. Using productivity figure you can measure following things those come under production planning functions

Factory capacity Calculation:
Suppose machine productivity of your factory for ladies blouse is 6 pieces per machine per 8 hours shift and you have total 400 machines in your factory. So daily production capacity of your factory for ladies blouse would be equal to 400*6 pieces or 2400 piece per day (8 hours shift).
Factory capacity calculation formula of a given product
Factory capacity  (in pieces) = (Machine productivity * No. of running machines in your factory)  

Other planning related tasks those can be performed using factory capacity and line capacity figures are as following -
  • Lead time calculation
  • Order booking  
  • Order scheduling
  • Cost per piece
You can also measure line capacity using labor productivity data. But machine number in a factory is more stable than manpower (labor). I would prefer to suggest you to use machine productivity in measuring your factory capacity in term of how many pieces factory can produce in a certain time period.
Would love to hear how you do planning where garment SAM is not measured.

Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Minimum Living Wage for the Ready Made Garment Sector

 Estimating a Minimum Living Wage for the Ready Made Garment Sector in Bangladesh 2013 


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 COOL APPS FOR YOU




Living minimum wages is now a buzz word in the ready made garment sector, specially in Bangladesh. Big apparel brands (H&M) and buyers want suppliers to implement fair living wages for garment industry workers. In this scenario, many garment business owners and researchers would be interested to know exactly,

  • what is the correct definition of minimum living wages and 
  • how to estimate living minimum wages for ready made garment industry workers. 

Couple of days ago, I have found a book named as the above title, authored by a team of researchers. I hope you will find this book very helpful to understand definition of various terms related to minimum wages, living wages, and statistics related to minimum wages for Bangladesh as well as other Asian countries.

What is Minimum Wages? 


Wawak Sewing Authors of this book has defined Minimum wages as a wage that is sufficient to meet the basic needs of workers and their families and provide some discretionary income. Conceptually basic needs mean “more than the necessities of life: food, clothing and shelter”. Additional elements used in the definition of basic needs are clean water, healthcare, childcare, transportation, education, energy, and some discretionary income or savings.

In other words: basic needs are not simply the nutritional and non-nutritional requirements at ‘poverty level’; rather it means requirements higher than that level. Different nutritional requirements of men, women, and children in the family need to be taken into account while estimating the minimum wage for workers. A major part of basic needs are related with non-food needs as listed above.

Wawak Sewing To download the book (pdf format), click on the following book cover page.



Before downloading the book you can check content page of the book.



I like to thank to the authors and research team to write this book for us.

Research team:

  1. Dr. K.G. Moazzem —Additional Research Director, Centre for Policy Dialogue, Bangladesh
  2. Saifa Raz — Research Associate, Centre for Policy Dialogue, Bangladesh
  3. Doug Miller — Emeritus Professor Worker Rights in Fashion, Northumbria University, United Kingdom
  4. Claudia Schlangen — Consultant, Berenschot, Netherlands
  5. Irina van der Sluijs — Senior Consultant, Berenschot, Netherlands


If you find this information helpful, please share this information with your friends.

SAM in Garment Industry

What is the Meaning of SAM in Garment Industry?


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As defined in the book Introduction to Work Study, ILO,

SAM is the time value arrived at for a task based on the average rate of output which qualified workers will naturally achieve without over exertion provided that they know and adhere to the specified method and provided that they are motivated to apply themselves to their work.

Wawak Sewing Here SAM stands for Standard Allowed Minute.


In garment industry, specifically in production SAM is used for measuring work. In the factory work study department (also know as Industrial Engineering department) measure and calculate SAM for sewing operation using standard calculation method. Read 'How to calculate SAM of the garment'
SAM is used many ways directly and indirectly. Some of those are

  • Factory as well as individual operator performance is measured by means of SAM
  • Labor cost and associated cost ratios are measured by SAM 
  • Operators payroll and incentive amount is calculated based on earned SAM
  • Latest production scheduling systems like line balancing system and performance measuring systems use SAM as one of the primary parameters. 
An organised garment manufacturing company can not think about managing and controlling shop floor without using SAM of the garment and  individual operations. Even apparel buyers do negotiation of garment manufacturing price based on garment SAM. 
To derive most appropriate SAM value of a garment, factories use PTS based systems. Standard Time is also derived from time study method.  
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Manage Quality in a Better Way at Buyer’s

How to Manage Quality in a Better Way at Buyer’s End (Buying House) – Statistical Data Analysis


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by Todor Stojanov

In this article author has explained ‘Statistical Data Analysis for Buying House towards better Quality Management’. The purpose of writing this article is to show some of the difficulties that big buying houses have been facing during the past years.

Supply chain in the apparel industry has become more complicated since companies have been seeking for lower cost and they have started to source their suppliers all around the globe. That brought the need for designing better control system of already very complicated supply network.

Wawak Sewing The Supply Chain in Apparel industry, illustrated in Figure-1, is comprised of its main subjects: customer, retailer, garment supplier and fabric supplier. This kind of supply chain is more or less similar with most of the apparel companies. Usually, larger size companies can have more complicated structure, especially in the garment supply segment. Figure-2 illustrates the garment supply in larger apparel company. Several subjects can be distinguished: buying house (BH), garment supplier –contractor (GSC), garment supplier sub-contractor (GSSC). In cases like this, where garment supply network is getting more complicated, the company needs to think of establishing efficient Quality Management System (QMS). That will ensure more systematically approach in Quality Assurance (QA), detection of causes and solving the problems for low quality.


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Figure-1: Apparel Industry Supply Chain
Figure-2: Garment Supply Hierarchy
In order to have record for the QA performance of every supplier, Statistical Data Analysis is necessary to be obtained. Getting necessary data, that will describe the real QA situation in the company, can be ensured by designing sufficient supportive documentation. One of the key documents is the inspection report.

Inspection report should contain information which after analysis can give clear picture for the Quality status in the company. The following table presents the most important information that one QC report needs to have.
Table-1: Information to be collected from QC Inspection Report
Wawak Sewing The information from the QC report can be digitalized and incorporated into the ERP system of the company. Digital version of the QC report should be able to satisfy the needs for providing the necessary information and making the work process easier. The following picture illustrates an IT solution as QA support in the company. Beside features like, attaching pictures, adding comments and generating electronic document that can be send via e-mail, the IT solution for QA support should be able to keep history records and making statistical analysis.
Figure-3: IT Based MIS System for data analysis
Statistical analysis can be conducted based on the historical data from the QC reports. The analysis can be designed according to the needs for QA. The Statistical analysis report can present the supplier performance in terms of quality during the last 3 months, 6 months or one year. That will help the QA manager to have visual image about suppliers who have had bad performance during the last period. To know the biggest quality problems or the most problematic product types Pareto analysis can be done based on data collected from quality inspection reports. Also this kind of analysis can show the cost due to low quality (rework, 2nd choice pieces, delay). On the other side, the analysis can locate problems related to quality inspectors and their performance. An extended list of statistical analysis can be done, and it is presented in addition.

Wawak Sewing You can do analysis based of last 3 months data. Following parameters can be considered while collecting data. You can use multiple forms instead of one. Later make matrices for supplier performance on various parameters.


  • Number of orders per supplier;
  • Number of pieces per supplier;
  • Cost of orders;
  • Type of products per supplier;
  • Number of RTS orders;
  • Number of defective pieces;
  • Cost for poor quality (2nd choice pieces, rework, delay);
  • Type of defective product types (color, sizes);
  • Type of defects;
  • Number of defects per piece;
  • Number of defects per order;
  • Supplier name (responsible for low quality);
  • Inspector name (responsible for low quality);
  • Department (occurring the low quality);
  • Inspected orders per QC inspector;
  • Inspected quantity per QC inspector;
  • Travel distance (to supplier) per QC inspector;
  • Type of products per QC inspector;
  • Number of orders without approval (raw materials approval, sample approval, size set approval);
  • Number of orders with late approval;
  • Number of delay delivery date orders;


By knowing the existing quality problems, it is much easier to locate the problem causes and came up with solution for problem solving.

The most important thing is that the QMS should be accepted and understood by all the participants in it. They need to follow the work standards and get the knowledge from the statistical data that can be used for problem solving and setting goals for the future.

Garment Manufacturing Start-ups

Business Plan for Garment Manufacturing Start-ups


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Needless to mention that you can't ignore making a project plan before you jump into the business set-up. Everyday I get mails asking 'how to start garment business in small scale' and many other questions related to business start-up in garment industry. Most of the email senders seem completely new to garment manufacturing.

If you are looking for ideas for starting small business in the garment industry, read 10 Small Business Ideas in Garment Industry before you start reading following business plan.

Wawak Sewing This article is written to give you an idea how to make a business plan for garment manufacturing start-up. What all things you can start working before the approach for an expert's help. Instead of telling you how to start garment business, I will share what are primary things you need to know, when you are ready to start your business. There are two ways to a start business. One, first get customers (buyers) and make products according to them and sell. Second, make your product first and then get customers to sell your product. Whatever way you choose to do business, you need to work on the following things to make your project successful.

Read the step-by-step guide for making your business plan. In some steps you might need expert's advice. In the article, I have included links for your further reading to understand the business better.

Select Product Category

What type of garments you are going to make? If you plan to make knits garment (T-Shirts, Polo ), you would not try to make woven products (Shirts, Trousers) at the same time. Again in woven and knits there is wide range of product categories. Narrow you product profile as much as possible. Lets say, you are going to make woven shirts - Formals and Casuals. Write name of the product in your note book and move to the second point.

Estimate Production Requirement 

Wawak Sewing How many pieces are you planning to make daily? 50 shirts or 500 shirts per day? It would be difficult to decide the figure at this stage but you have to estimate a rough number. Later you can modify this figure depending on the budget and customer demand. Otherwise you can't move forward making your business plan. When my clients ask me question how many machines and what all machines they need to buy for their garment manufacturing set up, I ask them what (product name or type) do they want to make and how many pieces of garments they are planning to make per day. Read 'How to Calculate Production Capacity of a Factory'.

Number of Machines

On the above I have said to you to estimate production requirement. If you have decided the production figure, and product type, number of sewing machines and other equipment requirement can be calculated. Calculation can be also done in reverse way. In case you have a plan of setting specific number of machines, and product type, estimated production per day can be calculated. Here is the resource  "How to Determine Machine Requirement for a New Factory" for your further reading.

Type of Machines

Next step is to find what types of machines are required to make garments that you have selected from the wide range of product categories. For example, read Types of Machines used by Shirt Making Factory. It is also important to find number of machines to be purchased in each machine type. This step would help you to calculate capital investment in machines.
With sewing machines, make a list of other essential machines, equipment and set up requirements. For example, pressing tables, cutting room machines, Boiler (steam generator) for pressing table, diesel generator for power back-up, finishing room equipment, furnishings etc.

Raw Materials Requirement

You have already selected the product that you are going to make. Now make a list of raw materials required to make the garment with average consumption. This would help you to prepare your budget on material sourcing. A sample material list for knitted garment with projected cost has been published here.

Factory Space Requirement 

Now move one step ahead. How much space is required for installing machines and office for staff? To set up factory you need space for installing machines, office space and setting up departments for production and associated processes. Calculate space requirement. According to that you have can plan for a factory building or rent a space. Estimate rent amount for the project budget.

Manpower Requirement

You have already planned for machines and materials. Now plan for the requirement of manpower for the business. Manpower is one of the primary resources for a business. In manpower planning, include number of staffs, supervisors and workers (operators and helpers) you need to hire to make projected garments and to run business smoothly. Also estimate salaries for each employee and add to your budget to running cost. Get an idea from the market how much salary you need to pay to managers and workers. 

Project Cost 

I frequently get asked by people, how much money one needs to invest for the small size garment business? Here it is. To know the estimated budget you have to prepare cost of the project. You need to calculate total capital investment, Rent, EMI amount (if you are taking loan), salary for staff, workers wages and running costs. Also include finance required for sourcing raw materials for initial months and other expense etc. To run you business without financial problem, prepare monthly cash flow requirement for at least one year.

To estimate project cost you can seek help from an expert.

Internal Process Flow

Wawak Sewing Make detailed process flow of an order. This will help you to decide what all departments you need to set up and you can plan hiring people accordingly. You can cross check about your equipment requirement process by process. Read the Garment Manufacturing Process Flow Chart for the export orders. If you are new to garment manufacturing, read Apparel Manufacturing -An Overview'

Supplier Listing 

This process is not essential at first place. But you can start working on finding good and reliable suppliers for fabrics, trims and other necessary items required to manufacture your garments. Start establishing suppliers with your region, then go to other state and even you can source from international market for the quality and cost effective materials.

Reach to Your Customers 

You have finished the major part of making the garment manufacturing project. Now make a list of potential customers and start contacting them for business leads.

If you are new to garment manufacturing and want to enter into garment business seek help from an expert. An expert's guidance will help you to save your time, money, and efforts. You can also learn many things about the business insights from an expert. Wish you all the best for your upcoming garment business project.

Spray-on Clothing

Spray-on Clothing: Latest Cloth Manufacturing Technique

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Wawak Sewing

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Can you imagine what could be the future of clothing?

Today I show an interesting development in cloth manufacturing on NewScientist site, a development by designers from Imperial College London. This video was made on September 2010, three years ago.

Wawak Sewing I don't know what to name this technique of cloth making. On the video it is named as Spray-on Clothing. Click on the following video and watch the amazing way of cloth making by directly spraying solvent on the wearer's body. Get the cloth ready within a minute.

One more interesting fact is that clothes made by this techniques can be recycled just by dissolving in the solvent.

Fabric Plan for Knits

Fabric Plan for Knits: Relationship Between Yarn Count, Machine Gauge and Fabric GSM

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In past, couple of OCS readers asked me following questions on knitting,

  1. What is the relationship between yarn count, machine gauge and GSM in knitted fabrics? 
  2. What machine gauge and yarn count they should use to get desired fabric GSM?

Wawak Sewing Frankly speaking, I do not know the answer of these questions. Many thanks to Samuel JC, who shared his knowledge with us and helped us to find out the answer of the above questions through the following Fabric Plan. According to him following parameters are used in knitting industry to get the desired fabric quality in terms of GSM of greige and processed fabrics. GSM figures are shown in a range.

This fabric plan is one valuable resource for garment industry professionals who deal with knitted fabrics. Fabric knitters can also use this chart as a guideline. In the following table 18 different knits fabric categories are listed. For each categories what yarn counts are used and what machine gauge to use to get required GSM are shown.

For example, suppose one needs to make Singe Jersey of 160 GSM. To produce fabric of that quality, he needs to use 30's yarn and 24 gauge machine.


P.S. The above parameter values is used by many knitters and get GSM within the range mentioned above. You may also get similar results but we can't guarantee the outcome. Do R&D at your end prior to use the above parameters.


About Samuel JC:
Samuel is working as Technical Designer at Arvind Lifestyle, Bangalore. He did his M.F.Tech from NIFT, Banglore and B. Tech (Fashion Technology) from Kumaraguru College of Technology. Earlier he worked at Hasbro Clothing, Chennai as a Knitwear Designer .



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Garment SAM Calculation and Use of Rating Factor

An Interesting Question on Garment SAM Calculation and Use of Rating Factor

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Wawak Sewing
An OCS reader wrote me following mail. Go through it and try to find out how would you explain him to solve his problem.
"I have a question about calculating SAM for an operation or a garment.

If you use the formula
Wawak Sewing Basic time= Observed time * performance rating and use a higher performance rating the time taken for the operation is higher than if you took a lower performance rating that is lower.

For example. observed time is 10 minutes. with this - if the operator is at 100% performance then the operation's Basic time (SAM value) will be 10 minutes (10X1). But if an operator is at 50% performance (meaning half as efficient as an operator at 100% performance) for with the same average time for an operation then basic time is 5 (10 x 0.5)
Is this to mean that a lower operator performance will yield faster completion of garment making tasks? that seems counter intuitive to me. Please explain"


Wawak Sewing For a while I also started thinking, how it is coming? A higher rated operator taking higher time than the low rated operator. I know it is not true. But where the problem lies in above example? 

I answered him with following explanation.
Don't worry. Just go through following explanation. You will find what is wrong in the above example.

You are going set standard time (SAM) of an operation through time study. First you need to calculate Basic Time. You need to level the observed time (cycle time) to get standard time. And leveling of time is done by multiplying Rating factor (performance rating). 

Formula: Basic time = Observed time X Rating 
(If we do not consider allowances, Basic time=standard time)
Example, You timed one operator and it is 10 minutes, you rate her 50%. As the operator's rating is less than 100%, she would take higher time than the standard time. And standard time would be lower than 10 minutes. Right? 

Wawak Sewing So you multiply rating with observed time to calculate basic time. And it is (10 * 50%) = 5 minutes. It means an operator who works at normal pace (no too fast or no too slow) should take 5 minute to complete this operation. For same operator, taking 10 minutes to compete that operation and you rate her 100%. Logically, it is not possible. Either you timed wrong or rate her incorrectly.
In reverse way, a 100% operator and a half efficient (50%) operator can not complete a task in same time (10 minutes). Your assumption is wrong in the above example.

Conclusion: A low performance operator would take higher time to complete the given operation than a higher performance operator.
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Purchase Order (PO) for Garment Sourcing

How to Make Purchase Order (PO) for Garment Sourcing

Track texts easily!

Purchase order is a written document that includes specification of product, Product Price (FOB), Total order quantity, size break-up, packing instruction and shipping address etc. Purchase Order is known as PO.

Garment buyers and garment sourcing agents follow a standard formats for purchase order. Each of those PO includes above documents and also includes additional information as per buyers requirement to explain things in a better way. For export orders, buyers sent specification sheet, construction details during sample development.

When you are first time planning to source garments and manufacturing done by garment manufacturers, you might required to know few basic information that need to be included in your PO. If all necessary details are not found in your PO, supplier will ask you questions for many things. You might not understand most of their technical terms. You can do one thing, surrender to supplier for details what they asked you and ask supplier to provide best option for particular things. Suppliers asked for such information as because, they are habituated of seeing a set of specified information in the PO sent by buyers.
Again, if you are first time placing an order with a garment factory, suppose for school or college uniforms, you don't need to go through that long process of sample development, approvals, size set, salesman sampling, PP sampling etc. You need to provide as much information as required to make your product. If you are a small retailers or individual who need uniforms for a group, you can follow the following instruction to make your purchase order. Most easy thing that you can do is pick a garment from market and send it to supplier asking to copy for design, construction and whatever you like to keep similar as the sample.

In the following table list of information are included those are found in a PO.

Parameters
Description
Product/Style nameMention the name of your garment. Is it a T-Shirt order or Shirts or Polo or Sweat shirt or else?
Product descriptionAdd text that describes your style. Like Half sleeve T-shirt, full Sleeve Shirt etc. If you have image of the product you can add that  image also.
Order quantityTotal number of pieces you like to source from the supplier. For uniform order you can calculate order quantity just by count heads of group members. If you are a retailer, you can decide order quantity based on your sales forecast.
Size break-up in orderYou might need to source garment multiple sizes, based on wearer. If you are going to order for college uniforms or uniform for your employees, you can check with wearer who wear what size of garment and make a list. Send the summarized size break-up. 
Fabric Details
  • Fabric type: For knits fabric GSM, Single jersey etc. If your design have different types of fabric mention details of all fabrics.
  • Fabric color: Specify color or colors for multiple color orders.
Print and Logo designYou want a design in your garment? Send the design and logo that to be printed on the garment. Also clearly mention the placement of logo or print designs on the garment.
Washing DetailsAdd washing instruction if applies to your order.
Measurement sheetIn case you developed one spec sheet, send it to the supplier. Otherwise you can ask supplier to use standard measurement for your design based demographic. 
LabelingAdd what all labels you like to attach to your garment like care labels, main label and size label or else.
PriceAgreed price that is finalized with suppliers. 
Packing detailsProvide folding and packing instruction.
Tags detailsIf applies to your order you have to mention where to attach hang tags and means of attaching hang tags. This Track texts easily! applies for retailing orders. Supplier normally don't design or develop tags (price tags, hand tags). You have to develop tags and provide supplier.
Shipping AddressComplete address where you want supplier to send finished goods.  
OthersAdd what  other information supplier asked from you prior to order confirmation.


An Example How I Ordered for T-Shirt Uniform.


I made one purchase order with following information. And it explains everything that I needed in our T-Shirts. For measurements I followed standard measurement chart. I didn't have design of the T-shirt. So, I asked supplier to submit one sample and I approved that for my order.

Product Name: Crew neck T-shirt (Half Sleeve).
Order Quantity: 200 pieces, Size: Medium only
Fabric Details: 100% cotton Single jersey 160 gsm. Neck rib – 1X2 ribs matching gsm, Back neck tape – Self fabric
Color: Solid Blue Pantone#19-4052 TPX
Printing Details: Logo print on chest (Logo design attached in a separate sheet and also send separate image file)
Measurement (Size chart): Send a standard size chart.
Packing Instruction: Single piece packing.
Price: As confirmed in mail.
I hope now you can make PO for your garment orders.
Track texts easily!