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Showing posts with label Apparel and Textile. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Apparel and Textile. Show all posts
Friday, September 5, 2014
Perfect Flower Strap Wedge Heel Sandals - Three Colors
Comfortable Round Toe Wedge Heel Pumps
Thursday, September 4, 2014
Graduation Project Topics on Apparel Merchandising
Graduation Project Topics on Apparel Merchandising for 2014 (Discussion Post)
I am not in touch with merchandising work and with merchandisers for couple of years. That is why it becomes very difficult for me to suggest good topic to students. I want you to suggest some project topics for students in merchandising filed. All of the students are from NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology).
Here I have posted one of my e-mail discussions. And posted 4 other similar queries from OCS readers. I hope you would also like to give your suggestion on this discussion.
Student # 1:
Student: Sir, I am a student of National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Chennai, VII semester. As it is my final year in college, I
am supposed to do a Graduation Project in the coming semester. I came
across many topics, but I am unable to decide the best one in the
present scenario. I would be grateful to you if you could help me in
suggesting some topics.
OCS Reply: What are your favorite topics in NIFT? Carry out your
graduation project on your interested topics. Which course you are doing
at NIFT? Are you interested to do project in college or in factories?
Reply me these two questions then I would be able to suggest you few
good topics for your project.
Student: I am a student doing Apparel Production in NIFT and am interested in doing my GP in Merchandising. But the problem is that the college faculties do not encourage the same. So it would be helpful to me if you could suggest some topics related to for both Merchandising as well as Production.
Student: I am a student doing Apparel Production in NIFT and am interested in doing my GP in Merchandising. But the problem is that the college faculties do not encourage the same. So it would be helpful to me if you could suggest some topics related to for both Merchandising as well as Production.
OCS Reply: In such case, you can do project on the below topics
- Strengthening Pre-production activities in an export house (reduction on delays in pre-production activities)
- Improve Production planning in sampling and merchandising process (pre-production)
- How an effective merchandising improve production, reduce quality issues and reduce shipment delays
Tips: Don't be biased by the name of the topic. In the graduation project learn as much as you can do. While you are doing project on production, you can still learn merchandising by interacting with merchandisers in a factory.
- Strengthening Pre-production activities in an export house (reduction on delays in pre-production activities)
- Improve Production planning in sampling and merchandising process (pre-production)
- How an effective merchandising improve production, reduce quality issues and reduce shipment delays
Tips: Don't be biased by the name of the topic. In the graduation project learn as much as you can do. While you are doing project on production, you can still learn merchandising by interacting with merchandisers in a factory.
Student #2:
I have to go for a Graduation Project in the month of January next
year. I thought if I could use your knowledge and experience for my
Graduation Project.
I am still searching for a Project upon which
I need to work for around 16 weeks. I wanted to know that in
Merchandising department, what could be taken as a project. Is there any
loop hole or anything which could be organised to bring about a
positive change in the Merchandising process.
Please help me in choosing a good Project.
I am still searching for a Project upon which
Please help me in choosing a good Project.
Student#3:
I want to carry out my college project in merchandising. Any research project topic in merchandising department. Plz help.
Student#4:
Sir, I request you to suggest me some good graduation projects in
merchandising which helps me learn and explore more about its roles
and functions also it may benefit the company thus resulting in a
successful project.
Wednesday, September 3, 2014
Production Plan Without SAM Value
Click Here

Mass manufacturing in garment industry is growing in very fast pace and at the same time technology and supporting departments are getting in place. But the real fact is - still most of the garment manufacturing companies don’t have industrial engineering set up. It is not only Bangladesh, even in India and other garment exporting countries, there are many companies those are managed without engineers.
Last week I have posted an article ‘Role of SAM value in Production planning and control’ and this post is based on that question. Yes, there is a way to perform production planning tasks without garment SAM value. In this article I will show you the method.
The alternative way is calculating machine productivity to estimate line capacity as well as your factory capacity. To measure machine productivity of a line you don’t need any engineer. If one know the procedure and formula of calculating productivity of the production floor, can find machine productivity easily. Later this productivity data would be considered as base of production planning.
Machine productivity is defined as number of units produced per machine in a given time period. From the daily production and machine used to produce those garments you can measure machine productivity per day. Formula used to calculated machine productivity of a line
Machine productivity = (Total production of a line in a day / No. of machines in the line) pieces per day per machine
For example, suppose a line of 35 machines has produced 280 pieces per day (8 hours shift day). Machine productivity of the line
= 280/35 pieces per machine per 8 hours day
= 8 pieces per machine per 8 hours day
Finding daily line output data and machine numbers would not be a difficult job to anyone. Just for your information - style to style productivity will vary depending on work content of the style. So, you can prepare a database of the machine productivity for the previously produced styles. You can use historical data while required and update your machine productivity after each style gets over.
To explain this I need to repeat few things that have been explained in earlier article. That I don't like. Using productivity figure you can measure following things those come under production planning functions
Factory capacity Calculation:
Suppose machine productivity of your factory for ladies blouse is 6 pieces per machine per 8 hours shift and you have total 400 machines in your factory. So daily production capacity of your factory for ladies blouse would be equal to 400*6 pieces or 2400 piece per day (8 hours shift).
Other planning related tasks those can be performed using factory capacity and line capacity figures are as following -
Would love to hear how you do planning where garment SAM is not measured.
How to Make Production Plan Without SAM Value? [Q&A]

Mass manufacturing in garment industry is growing in very fast pace and at the same time technology and supporting departments are getting in place. But the real fact is - still most of the garment manufacturing companies don’t have industrial engineering set up. It is not only Bangladesh, even in India and other garment exporting countries, there are many companies those are managed without engineers.
Last week I have posted an article ‘Role of SAM value in Production planning and control’ and this post is based on that question. Yes, there is a way to perform production planning tasks without garment SAM value. In this article I will show you the method.
The alternative way is calculating machine productivity to estimate line capacity as well as your factory capacity. To measure machine productivity of a line you don’t need any engineer. If one know the procedure and formula of calculating productivity of the production floor, can find machine productivity easily. Later this productivity data would be considered as base of production planning.
Method of calculating Machine productivity:
Machine productivity is defined as number of units produced per machine in a given time period. From the daily production and machine used to produce those garments you can measure machine productivity per day. Formula used to calculated machine productivity of a line
Machine productivity = (Total production of a line in a day / No. of machines in the line) pieces per day per machine
For example, suppose a line of 35 machines has produced 280 pieces per day (8 hours shift day). Machine productivity of the line
= 280/35 pieces per machine per 8 hours day
= 8 pieces per machine per 8 hours day
Finding daily line output data and machine numbers would not be a difficult job to anyone. Just for your information - style to style productivity will vary depending on work content of the style. So, you can prepare a database of the machine productivity for the previously produced styles. You can use historical data while required and update your machine productivity after each style gets over.
How to use productivity data in Production Planning:
To explain this I need to repeat few things that have been explained in earlier article. That I don't like. Using productivity figure you can measure following things those come under production planning functions
Factory capacity Calculation:
Suppose machine productivity of your factory for ladies blouse is 6 pieces per machine per 8 hours shift and you have total 400 machines in your factory. So daily production capacity of your factory for ladies blouse would be equal to 400*6 pieces or 2400 piece per day (8 hours shift).
Factory capacity calculation formula of a given product
Factory capacity (in pieces) = (Machine productivity * No. of running machines in your factory)
Other planning related tasks those can be performed using factory capacity and line capacity figures are as following -
- Lead time calculation
- Order booking
- Order scheduling
- Cost per piece
Tuesday, September 2, 2014
Minimum Living Wage for the Ready Made Garment Sector
Estimating a Minimum Living Wage for the Ready Made Garment Sector in Bangladesh 2013
COOL APPS FOR YOU
Living minimum wages is now a buzz word in the ready made garment sector, specially in Bangladesh. Big apparel brands (H&M) and buyers want suppliers to implement fair living wages for garment industry workers. In this scenario, many garment business owners and researchers would be interested to know exactly,
- what is the correct definition of minimum living wages and
- how to estimate living minimum wages for ready made garment industry workers.
Couple of days ago, I have found a book named as the above title, authored by a team of researchers. I hope you will find this book very helpful to understand definition of various terms related to minimum wages, living wages, and statistics related to minimum wages for Bangladesh as well as other Asian countries.
What is Minimum Wages?
In other words: basic needs are not simply the nutritional and non-nutritional requirements at ‘poverty level’; rather it means requirements higher than that level. Different nutritional requirements of men, women, and children in the family need to be taken into account while estimating the minimum wage for workers. A major part of basic needs are related with non-food needs as listed above.
Before downloading the book you can check content page of the book.
I like to thank to the authors and research team to write this book for us.
Research team:
- Dr. K.G. Moazzem —Additional Research Director, Centre for Policy Dialogue, Bangladesh
- Saifa Raz — Research Associate, Centre for Policy Dialogue, Bangladesh
- Doug Miller — Emeritus Professor Worker Rights in Fashion, Northumbria University, United Kingdom
- Claudia Schlangen — Consultant, Berenschot, Netherlands
- Irina van der Sluijs — Senior Consultant, Berenschot, Netherlands
If you find this information helpful, please share this information with your friends.
SAM in Garment Industry
What is the Meaning of SAM in Garment Industry?
As defined in the book Introduction to Work Study, ILO,
SAM is the time value arrived at for a task based on the average rate of output which qualified workers will naturally achieve without over exertion provided that they know and adhere to the specified method and provided that they are motivated to apply themselves to their work.
In garment industry, specifically in production SAM is used for measuring work. In the factory work study department (also know as Industrial Engineering department) measure and calculate SAM for sewing operation using standard calculation method. Read 'How to calculate SAM of the garment'
SAM is used many ways directly and indirectly. Some of those are
- Factory as well as individual operator performance is measured by means of SAM
- Labor cost and associated cost ratios are measured by SAM
- Operators payroll and incentive amount is calculated based on earned SAM
- Latest production scheduling systems like line balancing system and performance measuring systems use SAM as one of the primary parameters.
An organised garment manufacturing company can not think about managing
and controlling shop floor without using SAM of the garment and
individual operations. Even apparel buyers do negotiation of garment
manufacturing price based on garment SAM.
To derive most appropriate SAM value of a garment, factories use PTS
based systems. Standard Time is also derived from time study method.
Manage Quality in a Better Way at Buyer’s
How to Manage Quality in a Better Way at Buyer’s End (Buying House) – Statistical Data Analysis
by Todor Stojanov
In this article author has explained ‘Statistical Data Analysis for Buying House towards better Quality Management’. The purpose of writing this article is to show some of the difficulties that big buying houses have been facing during the past years.
Supply chain in the apparel industry has become more complicated since companies have been seeking for lower cost and they have started to source their suppliers all around the globe. That brought the need for designing better control system of already very complicated supply network.
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| Figure-1: Apparel Industry Supply Chain |
![]() |
| Figure-2: Garment Supply Hierarchy |
Inspection report should contain information which after analysis can give clear picture for the Quality status in the company. The following table presents the most important information that one QC report needs to have.
![]() |
| Table-1: Information to be collected from QC Inspection Report |
![]() |
| Figure-3: IT Based MIS System for data analysis |
- Number of orders per supplier;
- Number of pieces per supplier;
- Cost of orders;
- Type of products per supplier;
- Number of RTS orders;
- Number of defective pieces;
- Cost for poor quality (2nd choice pieces, rework, delay);
- Type of defective product types (color, sizes);
- Type of defects;
- Number of defects per piece;
- Number of defects per order;
- Supplier name (responsible for low quality);
- Inspector name (responsible for low quality);
- Department (occurring the low quality);
- Inspected orders per QC inspector;
- Inspected quantity per QC inspector;
- Travel distance (to supplier) per QC inspector;
- Type of products per QC inspector;
- Number of orders without approval (raw materials approval, sample approval, size set approval);
- Number of orders with late approval;
- Number of delay delivery date orders;
By knowing the existing quality problems, it is much easier to locate the problem causes and came up with solution for problem solving.
The most important thing is that the QMS should be accepted and understood by all the participants in it. They need to follow the work standards and get the knowledge from the statistical data that can be used for problem solving and setting goals for the future.
Garment Manufacturing Start-ups
Business Plan for Garment Manufacturing Start-ups
Needless to mention that you can't ignore making a project plan before you jump into the business set-up. Everyday I get mails asking 'how to start garment business in small scale' and many other questions related to business start-up in garment industry. Most of the email senders seem completely new to garment manufacturing.
If you are looking for ideas for starting small business in the garment industry, read 10 Small Business Ideas in Garment Industry before you start reading following business plan.
Read the step-by-step guide for making your business plan. In some steps you might need expert's advice. In the article, I have included links for your further reading to understand the business better.
Select Product Category
What type of garments you are going to make? If you plan to make knits
garment (T-Shirts, Polo ), you would not try to make woven products
(Shirts, Trousers) at the same time. Again in woven and knits there is
wide range of product categories. Narrow you product profile as much as
possible. Lets say, you are going to make woven shirts - Formals and
Casuals. Write name of the product in your note book and move to the
second point.
Estimate Production Requirement
Number of Machines
On the above I have said to you to estimate production requirement. If
you have decided the production figure, and product type, number of
sewing machines and other equipment requirement can be calculated.
Calculation can be also done in reverse way. In case you have a plan of
setting specific number of machines, and product type, estimated
production per day can be calculated. Here is the resource "How to Determine Machine Requirement for a New Factory" for your further reading.
Type of Machines
Next step is to find what types of machines are required to make
garments that you have selected from the wide range of product
categories. For example, read Types of Machines used by Shirt Making Factory.
It is also important to find number of machines to be purchased in each
machine type. This step would help you to calculate capital investment
in machines.
With sewing machines, make a list of other essential machines, equipment
and set up requirements. For example, pressing tables, cutting room
machines, Boiler (steam generator) for pressing table, diesel generator
for power back-up, finishing room equipment, furnishings etc.
Raw Materials Requirement
You have already selected the product that you are going to make. Now
make a list of raw materials required to make the garment with average
consumption. This would help you to prepare your budget on material
sourcing. A sample material list for knitted garment with projected cost
has been published here.
Factory Space Requirement
Now move one step ahead. How much space is required for installing
machines and office for staff? To set up factory you need space for
installing machines, office space and setting up departments for
production and associated processes. Calculate space requirement.
According to that you have can plan for a factory building or rent a
space. Estimate rent amount for the project budget.
Manpower Requirement
You have already planned for machines and materials. Now plan for the
requirement of manpower for the business. Manpower is one of the primary
resources for a business. In manpower planning, include number of
staffs, supervisors and workers (operators and helpers) you need to hire
to make projected garments and to run business smoothly. Also estimate
salaries for each employee and add to your budget to running cost. Get
an idea from the market how much salary you need to pay to managers and
workers.
Project Cost
I frequently get asked by people, how much money one needs to invest for
the small size garment business? Here it is. To know the estimated
budget you have to prepare cost of the project. You need to calculate
total capital investment, Rent, EMI amount (if you are taking loan),
salary for staff, workers wages and running costs. Also include finance
required for sourcing raw materials for initial months and other expense
etc. To run you business without financial problem, prepare monthly
cash flow requirement for at least one year.
To estimate project cost you can seek help from an expert.
To estimate project cost you can seek help from an expert.
Internal Process Flow
Supplier Listing
This process is not essential at first place. But you can start working
on finding good and reliable suppliers for fabrics, trims and other
necessary items required to manufacture your garments. Start
establishing suppliers with your region, then go to other state and even
you can source from international market for the quality and cost
effective materials.
You have finished the major part of making the garment manufacturing
project. Now make a list of potential customers and start contacting
them for business leads. Reach to Your Customers
If you are new to garment manufacturing and want to enter into garment business seek help from an expert. An expert's guidance will help you to save your time, money, and efforts. You can also learn many things about the business insights from an expert. Wish you all the best for your upcoming garment business project.
Spray-on Clothing
Spray-on Clothing: Latest Cloth Manufacturing Technique
Can you imagine what could be the future of clothing?
Today I show an interesting development in cloth manufacturing on NewScientist site, a development by designers from Imperial College London. This video was made on September 2010, three years ago.
One more interesting fact is that clothes made by this techniques can be recycled just by dissolving in the solvent.
Fabric Plan for Knits
Fabric Plan for Knits: Relationship Between Yarn Count, Machine Gauge and Fabric GSM
- What is the relationship between yarn count, machine gauge and GSM in knitted fabrics?
- What machine gauge and yarn count they should use to get desired fabric GSM?
This fabric plan is one valuable resource for garment industry professionals who deal with knitted fabrics. Fabric knitters can also use this chart as a guideline. In the following table 18 different knits fabric categories are listed. For each categories what yarn counts are used and what machine gauge to use to get required GSM are shown.
For example, suppose one needs to make Singe Jersey of 160 GSM. To produce fabric of that quality, he needs to use 30's yarn and 24 gauge machine.
P.S. The above parameter values is used by many knitters and get GSM within the range mentioned above. You may also get similar results but we can't guarantee the outcome. Do R&D at your end prior to use the above parameters.
About Samuel JC:
Samuel is working as Technical Designer at Arvind Lifestyle, Bangalore. He did his M.F.Tech from NIFT, Banglore and B. Tech (Fashion Technology) from Kumaraguru College of Technology. Earlier he worked at Hasbro Clothing, Chennai as a Knitwear Designer .
Garment SAM Calculation and Use of Rating Factor
An Interesting Question on Garment SAM Calculation and Use of Rating Factor
An OCS reader wrote me following mail. Go through it and try to find out how would you explain him to solve his problem.
"I have a question about calculating SAM for an operation or a garment.
If you use the formula
For example. observed time is 10 minutes. with this - if the operator is at 100% performance then the operation's Basic time (SAM value) will be 10 minutes (10X1). But if an operator is at 50% performance (meaning half as efficient as an operator at 100% performance) for with the same average time for an operation then basic time is 5 (10 x 0.5) Is this to mean that a lower operator performance will yield faster completion of garment making tasks? that seems counter intuitive to me. Please explain"
You are going set standard time (SAM) of an operation through time
study. First you need to calculate Basic Time. You need to level the
observed time (cycle time) to get standard time. And leveling of time is
done by multiplying Rating factor (performance rating).
Formula: Basic time = Observed time X Rating
(If we do not consider allowances, Basic time=standard time)
Example, You timed one operator and it is 10 minutes, you rate her 50%. As the operator's rating is less than 100%, she would take higher time than the standard time. And standard time would be lower than 10 minutes. Right?
Example, You timed one operator and it is 10 minutes, you rate her 50%. As the operator's rating is less than 100%, she would take higher time than the standard time. And standard time would be lower than 10 minutes. Right?
In reverse way, a 100% operator and a half efficient (50%) operator can not complete a task in same time (10 minutes). Your assumption is wrong in the above example.
Conclusion: A low performance operator would take higher time to complete the given operation than a higher performance operator.
Purchase Order (PO) for Garment Sourcing
How to Make Purchase Order (PO) for Garment Sourcing
Purchase order is a written document that includes specification of product, Product Price (FOB), Total order quantity, size break-up, packing instruction and shipping address etc. Purchase Order is known as PO.
Garment buyers and garment sourcing agents follow a standard formats for
purchase order. Each of those PO includes above documents and also
includes additional information as per buyers requirement to explain
things in a better way. For export orders, buyers sent specification
sheet, construction details during sample development.
When you are first time planning to source garments and manufacturing done by garment manufacturers, you might required to know few basic information that need to be included in your PO. If all necessary details are not found in your PO, supplier will ask you questions for many things. You might not understand most of their technical terms. You can do one thing, surrender to supplier for details what they asked you and ask supplier to provide best option for particular things. Suppliers asked for such information as because, they are habituated of seeing a set of specified information in the PO sent by buyers.
When you are first time planning to source garments and manufacturing done by garment manufacturers, you might required to know few basic information that need to be included in your PO. If all necessary details are not found in your PO, supplier will ask you questions for many things. You might not understand most of their technical terms. You can do one thing, surrender to supplier for details what they asked you and ask supplier to provide best option for particular things. Suppliers asked for such information as because, they are habituated of seeing a set of specified information in the PO sent by buyers.
Again, if you are first time placing an order with a garment factory,
suppose for school or college uniforms, you don't need to go through
that long process of sample development, approvals, size set, salesman
sampling, PP sampling etc. You need to provide as much information as
required to make your product. If you are a small retailers or
individual who need uniforms for a group, you can follow the following
instruction to make your purchase order. Most easy thing that you can do
is pick a garment from market and send it to supplier asking to copy
for design, construction and whatever you like to keep similar as the
sample.
In the following table list of information are included those are found in a PO.
In the following table list of information are included those are found in a PO.
An Example How I Ordered for T-Shirt Uniform.
I made one purchase order with following information. And it explains
everything that I needed in our T-Shirts. For measurements I followed
standard measurement chart. I didn't have design of the T-shirt. So, I
asked supplier to submit one sample and I approved that for my order.
Product Name: Crew neck T-shirt (Half Sleeve).
Order Quantity: 200 pieces, Size: Medium only
Fabric Details: 100% cotton Single jersey 160 gsm. Neck rib – 1X2 ribs matching gsm, Back neck tape – Self fabric
Color: Solid Blue Pantone#19-4052 TPX
Printing Details: Logo print on chest (Logo design attached in a separate sheet and also send separate image file)
Measurement (Size chart): Send a standard size chart.
Packing Instruction: Single piece packing.
Price: As confirmed in mail.
Product Name: Crew neck T-shirt (Half Sleeve).
Order Quantity: 200 pieces, Size: Medium only
Fabric Details: 100% cotton Single jersey 160 gsm. Neck rib – 1X2 ribs matching gsm, Back neck tape – Self fabric
Color: Solid Blue Pantone#19-4052 TPX
Printing Details: Logo print on chest (Logo design attached in a separate sheet and also send separate image file)
Measurement (Size chart): Send a standard size chart.
Packing Instruction: Single piece packing.
Price: As confirmed in mail.
I hope now you can make PO for your garment orders.
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