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Showing posts with label gsm. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gsm. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Fabric Construction

How to Read Fabric Construction?


Question:

How to read fabric specification with construction of 76 X 68 30/30 of 100% cotton composition?


Answer:


In the tech-pack, buyer gives details of the fabric specification for its construction and composition (fibre content). Specification is similar to the description mentioned above 76X68 30/30 and 100% Cotton composition

Fabric construction with this description is read as the following:

76 X 68 is read as
Ends per inch is 76 and Pick per Inch is 68.  Or EPI X PPI = 76 X 68
This means that if you take specimen of 1 inch X 1 inch of this fabric, you will find 76 number of warp yarns and 68 numbers of weft yarns.

If you don't the terms, Ends means Warp yarns and Picks means Weft or Filling yarns. 


30/30 defines yarn sizes used in fabric.
Here warp yarn size is 30's Ne and weft yarn size is 30's Ne. Both warp and weft yarns are single ply. 
100% Cotton: Fabric composition. Fabric is made of 100% cotton fiber.

You might also find other form of fabric construction like
  1. 30X30 / 76X68 (Here yarns count are mentioned first and then EPI X PPI is mentioned)

Also Read: How to determine GSM of Woven Fabric from its construction?

Sometimes we forget basic things. It happens with me when I tried to write answer the above question. I called one of my friends who is working in a well known Consumers Testing Lab, for the clarification. Many thanks to him.

Making T-Shirt and Polo Shirt

How Much Fabric is Required Making T-Shirt and Polo Shirt


I have been asked following question:

“How many meter fabric makes a t-shirt round neck, polo t-shirts”
See my answer in below.

This seams a very simple question. I can provide you some consumption figures for T-shirts that I made earlier. Like you might be needed fabric of 160 grams or 190 grams for making one t-shirt. But this might not be true for your case, as you might be using a different fabric. If you use fabric of higher GSM you will be required more (in Kg) fabric compared to low GSM fabric. Fabric requirement for knitted garment is measured considering few parameters. These parameters are listed below.


  • Garment specification or measurement - length and width of all T-shirt components 
  • Fabric width – to get an idea how many patterns can be placed side by side, how much fabric is remain unused after placing garment patterns 
  • Fabric GSM – Fabric weight per square meter 
Sometimes fabric consumption also depends on fabric patterns. Like if you need to match stripes and checks in garment, consumption may increase.

Knitted Fabric

You have also asking fabric requirement in meters. In practice, requirement of knitted fabric is measured in grams instead of in meter. If you need to know fabric length, you can find it using formula and after having data for fabric consumption, fabric width and fabric weight (GSM).

Why not in meters? Read following explanation,

T-shirts and Polo shirts are made of knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics are easily stretchable in nature. Because knitted fabric is manufactured by loop formation. So to avoid variation in length, knitted fabrics are purchased in weight (Kilogram). Based on manufacturing process of fabrics, fabrics are classified into two categories - Woven Fabric and Knitted fabrics. On the other hand woven fabrics are purchased in meters.
As said above, know about garment size and find fabric area required for a garment. Then multiply area by fabric GSM to calculate fabric requirement (Assume that fabric width is fit to patterns and no side wastage). Then add wastage to get actual fabric requirement per garment.
Read this post to learn how to calculate fabric consumption for a T-shirt. Same guideline can be used for calculating fabric consumption for Polo shirt. Just you need to add fabric front placket components and find weight of collar and sleeve ribs separately.